Spetses – an island of seduction

We love the island of Spetses. With impressive mansions, a gorgeous harbour, varied nightlife, gourmet restaurants, and pine tree covered beaches, we are not surprised that Spetses is Greece’s most cosmopolitan (and optionally expensive) island, trumping Mykonos and Santorini in many surveys. However, for us it is a convenient day trip about an hour’s drive away, where you can pick up the ferry service to the island.

Alongside Hydra and the island of Psara, Spetses enjoyed special privileges during Ottoman rule, resulting in the accumulation of wealth and finesse unknown to the vast majority of Greek islands. The wealth is reflected in the state-like mansions that embellish the town, the 5* Poseidonion Hotel, and the home/mansion of freedom fighter Laskarina Bouboulina, Greece’s most famous female Admiral (more on Bouboulina and her museum to follow).

The main town of Spetses is notionally split between the ‘old’ and the ‘new’ harbour (Baltiza and Dapia, respectively). The ‘new’ harbour is where the ferry or water taxi will drop you off when you arrive. There you can find several boutique shops, craft beer bars, traditional tavernas, as well as souvlaki / gyros places for when the budget has run dry or the taste buds crave for tzatziki.

The ‘old’ harbour lies about one kilometer east to the new harbour. There you will find a number of Greek nouveau cuisine restaurants as well as traditional tavernas, all harmonically set next to the tranquil waters of the natural bay.

The walk from the ‘new’ to the ‘old’ harbour (or vice versa!) is one of my highest rated strolls, especially during the sunset. Enjoy the whitewashed benches, the deep blue of the Aegean sea and the stunning mansions of glorious admirals.  The walk is about 20 to 30 minutes (depending on your pace and the number of stops you make for photographs), but it can also be enjoyed on one of the several horse carriages that cross the otherwise pedestrianised walkway.

If you are in the mood for walking and have the time, take the pine covered road from the ‘old’ harbour to the lighthouse, where you will enjoy panoramic vistas of the bay of Baltiza. Most likely, you will also get a glimpse of the superyachts that frequent Spetses for weekend visits and for their owners’ show off.

Coming back to the ‘new’ harbour, do not miss the home-converted-to-museum of Laskarina Bouboulina. Bouboulina dedicated her life and wealth to the fight for independence, becoming an Admiral of the Greek navy leading her all-male crews to battle, most importantly the siege of Nafplion. When inside the museum, pay attention to the stunning wood-carved ceiling and the painting of the blockade of Nafplion, where Bouboulina is the only person standing fearlessly while her crew are shivering from fear.

When finished with the museum, stroll around the alleys behind it savouring the local architecture, the smell of jasmine, the pots with geranium flowers and the cactus trees with their delicious fruits. Inevitably you will end up back to the waterfront, on the large veranda overlooking Dapia, decorated with endless mosaic patterns. Treat yourself to a coffee and one (or more) of the locally made ‘amygdalota’ pastries, made from marzipan and rose water. Whatever you do on Spetses, you cannot get it wrong!

 

Spetses in one day

Start with a coffee at the veranda of the ‘new’ harbour along with an ‘amygdaloto’ or cheese pie. Visit Bouboulina’s museum to avoid the heat of mid-day and walk further west on the coastline for a quick splash in the sea. Enjoy a small bite at one of the seafront restaurants with their tables on the sand before heading to the ‘old’ harbour for an afternoon stroll and an aperitif. Take a horse carriage back to the ‘new’ harbour and wave good-bye to Bouboulina’s statue before you pick up the ferry for the mainland.

 

Spetses in two days

If you decide to spend a night on the island (we would definitely recommend it and assist you with finding accommodation), you will have the time to visit one of the island’s gorgeous beaches. Try Kaiki beach if you prefer something organised and relatively close to town, Agioi Anargyroi if you want to enjoy the best of the island’s sand, or Zogeria if you crave for a secluded experience in a pine-tree covered bay scattered with sailing boats. Do not miss visiting the ‘old’ harbour during the night to enjoy a nice meal and the live music performed at several of the small bars.